AO TA – A Four-Hands Culinary Dialogue at MÙA Hoi An

In early 2023, a discreet yet meaningful culinary encounter unfolded in Hội An at MÙA Restaurant, a destination deeply rooted in local agriculture and seasonal expression.

Titled “Ao Ta”, the four-hands collaboration marked a shared exploration between Alain Pham and Tru Lang, Head Chef of MÙA. More than a guest appearance, the event unfolded as a dialogue on land, memory, and contemporary Vietnamese identity through food.

For Alain Pham, the timing carried particular resonance. The event followed a period of advanced culinary training and professional exchange in Paris, where years of classical French technique were further refined. Returning to Vietnam, “Ao Ta” became a way to re-engage with local produce, rural rhythms, and the human relationships behind ingredients.

Set within the herb gardens of Trà Quế, MÙA’s philosophy centers on a direct dialogue between farmers and kitchen, a farm-to-table practice grounded not in trend, but in continuity. Under the guidance of Tru Lang, the restaurant has established itself as a space where seasonality dictates the menu, and where culinary expression begins long before ingredients reach the plate.

Together, the two chefs crafted a menu rooted in the landscape of central Vietnam: fresh herbs harvested at dawn, vegetables shaped by the region’s shifting weather, and seafood reflective of nearby waters. Rather than reinterpret tradition, the dishes sought to listen to it, allowing raw materials to speak with clarity and restraint.

I went to the Hoi An market with the curiosity of a child, ready to learn” Alain Pham reflected during the preparation phase. “Understanding where ingredients come from, and the lives that shape them, changes the way you cook.”

The title “Ao Ta” references a Vietnamese proverb about returning to one’s own pond, a metaphor for reconnecting with home, origins, and the values shaped by place.

For Alain, the collaboration echoed principles that continue to guide his work today at Aiii House Saigon: respect for origin, dialogue with local producers, and cuisine as a cultural narrative rather than a fixed form.

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